Handling and Storing Rare and Collectible Books

I consider the preservation of books equivalent to the preservation of history. Clearly, I am not alone, as exemplified by the plot of ‘The Book of Eli’, in which tremendous value is placed on all books, and particularly the bible, as they become exceedingly rare in a post-apocalyptic world. Such a world would be challenging to imagine, given that the bible is one of the most printed books of all time, second only to the Ikea catalog. Still, there are many myths perpetuated regarding the handling of books—from the best environment, to the use of gloves, to cleaning and repair. In this article, we will go through some of the major dos and don’ts when it comes to caring for you collection.

The cloth glove myth: I am not sure how the myth of wearing cloth gloves caught on, but I will admit that I thought it was necessary when I first started cataloging antiquarian books. What I quickly found was what many others did—the gloves were doing more damage than good. Notably, the lack of finger dexterity and sensitivity made it extremely challenging to flip through pages. There are some antiques for which cloth gloves are recommend, such as certain old types of photographs, but books generally require only very clean and dry hands. Before handling fine books, I wash my hands with a mild soap, rinse them well, dry them thoroughly, and then let them air dry for a bit before I pick up a book. That approach hasn’t failed me yet, and it is also what super pros, like Rebecca Romney, use. Whatever you do, don’t use latex gloves, as the chemicals in the gloves can have unwanted reactions with certain materials (you won’t lose a hand, but you may quickly ruin a book).

Don’t write in your books: I have never understood the appeal of writing in books. Simply, don’t do it, especially not in pen or marker. In fact, if you need some sort of identifying info, write it on a slip of paper and lay it inside the cover. If you would like to have the book personally identify you as the owner, consider a bookplate, which can also be laid in rather than adhered.

Protect the spine and hinges: You can damage books, even brand new modern books, by opening them very quickly, slamming them shut, over opening, or not supporting the hinges, especially for heavy books. Be sure to always provide support for books and never open the covers past 90 degrees.

Shelving/Storing: Ideally, place books vertically on shelves that have more height and depth than you need, so that only one edge of the book is in contact with the shelf. The shelves should have enough width so that the books are not pressed against the back of the case (if present), which provides sufficient space for air circulation. Books on shelves should be snuggly touching, but not extremely tight, as this can be unwanted pressure on joints and bindings. Additionally, I stagger my spines, again to avoid unwanted stress. Mainly, avoid books at a angle or under pressure. 

The best places for bookcases are away from sunlight, warmth and moisture, ruling out areas like garages or unfinished basements. However, extremely dry spaces can also be nonideal for books, especially those with covers made of materials prone to cracking. I keep my books in a room with as close to 45% humidity as possible and a temperature around 67° F. These conditions help prevent things like foxing, as discussed here.

If needed, it is OK to store books horizontally, including in boxes. This may not be ideal, but if you use caution and common sense (e.g., don’t stack large books on small or fragile books), it can be a suitable option until you can find some shelves or manage to start selling first-edition books. Optimally, cases with glass doors are best, as they help prevent dust from collecting on books.

Musty books: If your books have a musty aroma, don’t panic. I recommend getting a shallow plastic container with lid and sprinkling some baking soda in the bottom. Then, place something flat inside the container that will keep the book elevated. I use small blocks of wood. Place the lid on the container, and leave it undistributed for a couple weeks to a couple months. This should at least help get some of the smell out. I have also heard that a few whole cloves in the corners of bookshelves will reduce or prevent mildew, although I have never tried.

When buying books, a little must is just a yellow flag. However, mold or mildew is an automatic red flag for me. I do not want deal with treating the books before I bring them back to shelve next to perfectly good books, as these fungi can be insidious. If you encounter a particularly valuable book with mold or mildew, consider consulting a professional to help with both preservation (preventing further condition issues) and conservation (fixing/repairing condition issues).

Pest prevention: Eventually, if you own old books, you are going to turn up a book with some pest damage, and I can almost guarantee that you stomach is going to drop. It can be extremely stressful and frustrating, especially when you go to lengths to maintain a space free of pests, such as insects and mice. The number one recommendation I have is to keep your book space free of food and drinks, and keep it as clean as possible. If you see insects, immediately dispose of them and set out traps. I actually use traps pre-emptively. Although I have never seen a silverfish in my book room, I know that they are common in New England (and beyond), so I have a number of traps set around the room. I have also heard that a few bay leaves in a small cotton bag with a few drops of cedar oil can help prevent bugs.

If you do encounter a book with damage, try to isolate it from other books. I recommend placing it in a Ziploc bag and leaving in the freezer for at least two weeks. This approach was recommended to me by an ABAA seller, and although I have only used it once, it seemed to work. After removing the book from the freezer, carefully inspect it and determine if it is worth keeping. As you can imagine, books with insect damage, such as holes, are worth a fraction of what other books are, but if the damage is minor or limited, they may still be salable. We actually have a book about book pests for sale in our eBay store.

Protect your books: The easiest way to protect your valuable books is with mylar or other archival-quality clear plastic that can be used to make jackets for your books. We are happy to add Brodart Just-a-Fold archival jackets to any purchase on the website. This service can be added in our shop. Another option is to purchase an archival storage box or slip case for your books. However, these options can be a bit more expensive, especially if you need them in large number. In the future, we hope to offer custom slip cases among our services. Finally, if you have an expensive book or collection, don’t hesitate to get collectibles insurance. I recommend calling your home insurance provider to see if your books are covered, but in many cases, they won’t be. Companies like Collectibles Insurance Services provide excellent options at reasonable rates.